Scuba Holidays

 Cocos Island
14-22nd November 2009

The world's largest uninhabited island lies 300 miles off the Pacific coast of the Latin American country of Costa Rica. Famed as the resting place of 3 large pirate treasures, as yet to be discovered, Cocos Island is only 20 square miles in area, but is blessed with lush rain forest, tumbling waterfalls and many rare and indigenous species of plant and animal; towering cliffs add to the feeling of mystery that surrounds this isolated speck of land.

Stunning as the island is, it is what lurks beneath the dark and clear waters around Cocos Island that has made it one of the most talked about dive destinations in the world. Diving on rock pinnacles you will encounter huge schools of snapper, bigeye and jacks, often numbering in their thousands. Feeding on the abundant plankton that wells up on ocean currents, this seemingly endless supply of fish attracts many predators, in particular white-tip sharks. Large schools of hammerhead sharks can be seen cruising in the cold thermoclines that are often encountered at 100ft. Various theories exist as to why hammerheads socialise in large groups at certain times of year, but the most plausible is that they gather during the breeding season to protect their young; an obvious feeling of security can be felt from being surrounded by numerous friends!

Also feeding on the rich supply of plankton can be found huge manta rays, graceful and majestic behemoths whose alternative name of devil ray belies the fact that these creatures pose no threat to man. While the lager mantas are usually seen in solitary, small schools of the diminutive mobula manta can also be sighted. In addition, whale sharks are frequently seen; the world's largest fish, whale sharks are also plankton eaters, and are likewise of no danger to humans. Often reaching a length of 50ft, these masssive animals, with broad, flat heads and mottled brown markings, cruise the world's oceans with mouth agape, accompanied by a small entourage of remoras and pilot fish. Below, on the sea bed, large marbled rays rummage for shells and other food through the sand, while moray eels share the numerous caves with thousands of spiny lobsters and schools of smaller reef fish, seeking refuge from the relentless predation outside.

Stunning as the island is, it is what lurks beneath the dark and clear waters around Cocos Island that has made it one of the most talked about dive destinations in the world. Diving on rock pinnacles you will encounter huge schools of snapper, bigeye and jacks, often numbering in their thousands. Feeding on the abundant plankton that wells up on ocean currents, this seemingly endless supply of fish attracts many predators, in particular white-tip sharks. Large schools of hammerhead sharks can be seen cruising in the cold thermoclines that are often encountered at 100ft. Various theories exist as to why hammerheads socialise in large groups at certain times of year, but the most plausible is that they gather during the breeding season to protect their young; an obvious feeling of security can be felt from being surrounded by numerous friends! Also feeding on the rich supply of plankton can be found huge manta rays, graceful and majestic behemoths whose alternative name of devil ray belies the fact that these creatures pose no threat to man. While the lager mantas are usually seen in solitary, small schools of the diminutive mobula manta can also be sighted. In addition, whale sharks are frequently seen; the world's largest fish, whale sharks are also plankton eaters, and are likewise of no danger to humans. Often reaching a length of 50ft, these masssive animals, with broad, flat heads and mottled brown markings, cruise the world's oceans with mouth agape, accompanied by a small entourage of remoras and pilot fish. Below, on the sea bed, large marbled rays rummage for shells and other food through the sand, while moray eels share the numerous caves with thousands of spiny lobsters and schools of smaller reef fish, seeking refuge from the relentless predation outside.

The reefs of Cocos Island sustain incredible stocks of fish. Nowhere else on this planet can be seen such massive concentrations of pelagic fish in such a relatively small area. There is no greater thrill than to swim with a school of 200 hammerhead sharks, or observe leaping manta rays while enjoying a glorious sunset over the Pacific.

With it's National Park status Cocos Island and its surrounding waters give an idea of what the world's oceans may have looked like before the advent of modern fishing methods depleted the oceans' fish stocks. We offer three dive vessels for Cocos Island. Undersea Hunter, a converted research vessel, is a 92ft dive boat that sleeps up to 14 people in 6 cabins; Sea Hunter, sistership to Undersea Hunter, is a 115ft dive vessel sleeping 16 guests and Okeanos Aggressor is 120ft in length and can accommodate 22 divers in 11 cabins. Based at Puntarenas, they take divers on an 11 day adventure to Cocos Island and its amazing aquatic world. All three vessels are stable and powerful, negotiating the passage in 36 hours, and passengers are looked after by a highly professional staff. Diving is done "mothership" style, passengers being ferried to and from dive sites by tenders. Visits to the island to climb its rugged hills, admire the waterfalls and perhaps have a quick look for that elusive treasure all add to the excitement of what must surely be one of the world's most thrilling diving adventures.

Land Tours

If you have time to spare, we heartily recommend that you consider spending a few days on the Costa Rican mainland, which has much to offer the wildlife enthusiast. Arenal, to the north-west of San Jose, is worth a visit for the spectacular views of Arenal Volcano, that often puts on a splendid display of fiery lava. On the Caribbean coast, Tortugeuro has intricate waterways running through verdant rainforest, and has turtles, caymans and a host of birdlife. Canas, north of Puerto Jesus is also a twitcher's dream, with toucans, egrets and a host of other birds. For the adventurous, white water rafting along the Revantazon River is a must; we recommend at least a 2 day/1 night trip, so you can camp under the stars!

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Okeanos Aggressor

Originally a gin palace, the 120ft Italian-built Okeanos Aggressor was converted to a live-aboard dive vessel in 1984 and came under the Aggressor wing 2 years later. A major refit in 1996 now means she carries up to 21 passengers in 10 cabins, each with en suite bathrooms. Herr high bow and broad beam means has excellent ocean going capabilities, vital for the 36 hour open ocean crossing to her ultimate destination, Cocos Island.

Despite the fact that all diving is done from the Okeanos Aggressor's two tenders, the dive deck is vast; each diver has their own dive station with tank rack, locker and bench. Tanks are filled by whips direct from the compressors. A 3-tier camera table with low pressure air hoses, rinse tanks, freshwater showers and charging stations are also found on the dive deck. The dive platform located at the water’s edge is rarely used for diving, but is ideal for snorkelling from.

Forward of the dive deck is the saloon with comfy sofas, TV, video & music system, as well as a library of books and CDs. The dining area is separate from the saloon, with 2 large tables and chairs for the full complement of guests. A built-in 35mm slide projector is located in the dining room for silde shows. The galley is forward of the dining area, behind the crews’ quarters.

A stairway in the saloon takes you below decks, where 7 of the 11 cabins are to be found. The forward cabin is a triple (a substantial discount is available for those who are prepared to share this cabin), the remainder being twin cabins with double beds below and single bunks above. All have air-conditioning and en suite bathrooms.

A stairway from the dive deck takes you to the upper deck where the other 3 cabins are located, just behind the captain’s cabin and the bridge. Each of these cabins has a double bed & single bunk above and en suite bathroom. Also on this level is a shaded bar and access to a sun deck with loungers & flying bridge. The elevated position of the sun deck allows fantastic views of the tumbling waterfalls and jagged cliffs of Cocos Island.

The Okeanos Aggressor offers alternate 9 & 10 night cruises to Cocos Island, with 6 & 7 full days diving respectively. 9 night cruises start on Saturday and finish on Monday, and 10 night cruises are from Tuesday to Friday. Because of the flight connections a night’s hotel accommodation is required in San Jose either side of the boat trip.

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Cocos Island Dive Sites

DIRTY ROCK
A series of stepped rock pinnacles that break the surface and drop down to over 200ft with small coral formations along the upper reaches, and numerous caves hiding lobsters, snapper and bigeye. Small schools of marbled grouper can be seen at 50-100ft. Along the outer edge turtles, mantas and whale sharks are commonly sighted. Schooling hammerheads are usually "guaranteed" at 100-200ft along the outer drop-off, often coming up to 70ft. It is advisable to get to the outer edge as quickly as possible to maximise bottom time along the drop-off. Ignore everything else until ascending!

MANTA POINT
This ridge runs out from Cape Dampier on the south of Cocos, to a depth of about 90ft before tipping off the edge. A deep gully cuts between it and the mainland. Large schools of jacks and snapper can be found within the gully and along the outer edge. Turtles, marbled rays and white-tips can be observed along the reef top. Mobula and giant mantas come in on the plankton rich currents - water visibility is often poor (70ft) because of this. The more diminutive mobula rays are usually seen in schools of up to 8 or 10, and we saw one very large giant manta, a good 18ft across. Regrettably another diver swam straight at it to get his photo and scared it away. Tuh!

ALCYONE
Named after Jacques Cousteau's yacht, this is a seamount shaped like an upturned boat. It is about 80ft to the top and drops down to over 150ft on all sides. The top is swept by strong currents, so you need to be careful you don’t get swept off the edge into blue water. Huge marbled rays can be found in the sand patches on the top of the reef, often piled one on top of the other. Free-swimming morays are common also.

DOS AMIGOS
Two smaller islands off the South coast. Large numbers of white-tips and turtles, as well as schools of jacks and snappers in a large arch that starts at 70ft, dropping to over 100ft. There are excellent photo opportunities within the archway.

WAFER BAY
Located on the sand and rock bottom of Wafer Bay is the remains of a shipwreck, supposedly a German whaling ship that sank in the Fifties. When the tide is right, this can be an enjoyable shallow or night dive.

MANUELITA
The largest of the islets, off the north coast of Cocos, with a steep slope off the western side, and shallow fringing reef off the eastern side. A large cave on the seaward point is the supposed discovery place of treasure. Along the western side hammerheads and mantas are often seen, the former coming in to be "cleaned" by angle fish and other species. The fringing reefs are home to schools of surgeon fish and butterfly fish and garish orange frogfish, and I found sleeping white tips under a large coral head. To observe the hammerheads schooling at Manuelita you need to sit put on the rock slope on the western side and wait for them to come in. If they are there then you can see wuite literally thousands of them!

SHARK FIN ROCK
This huge rock pinnacle in open water almost breaks the surface – the sea swirls round its upper reaches. It drops to well below 200ft and is full of caves, swim-throughs and gullies choked with lobsters, fish and morays. Then ighlight of this dive is the monster school of jacks jacks that is frequently seen in the open water around Shark Fin Rock. They are eminently approachable and if you swim into their midst they will start to vortex around you, a wall of fish on all sides. There maybe upwards of 20,000 individuals in this school. We saw mobula rays on the surface at the end of your dive and snorkelled with them

SUBMERGED ROCK
A flat-topped pinnacle that starts in 15ft and drops to 160ft. Large whale sharks are common sights. The walls are pitted with holes that are home to numerous morays. Go deep and spiral upwards!

LOBSTER ROCK
As many as 40 white-tips can be seen sleeping on the sand at Lobster Rock.

The price is based on.. return economy airfares from London Heathrow to San Jose including taxes with Iberian Airlines; fares are the cheapest available at time of going to press. Departures from London Heathrow are daily, arriving San Jose the same day. Departures from San Jose are daily, arriving London Heathrow the following morning. Because of the boat schedules a night is required in San Jose at the start and end of each cruise. Airport transfers are not included in either case; a taxi is approximately £8 each way. For groups we can arrange a private minibus transfer at an additional charge. This would be £2686 and includes Okeanos Agressor, all food, Soft & alcoholic drinks are included in charter rate, 8 night Liveaboard, National Park Fee & Dive Tax totalling US $35 per dive day is payable in cash on the boat. (8 night cruises are 5 days diving, econmoy airfares and hotel accommodation. flight upgrades: to Business Class TBC Non Diver: Deduct 10%

All you need to do now is contact the office for the booking forms and return:

£600 deposit and insurance. Kit hire fee payable to C-Life Ltd. Confirmation of the flights etc will be forwarded. Balance required 10 weeks prior to departure.

Itinerary may change slightly by next year due to airline fuel costs and strength of the pound.