Scuba Holidays

Gaelic Rose is a 60ft/18m converted seine net fishing boat, owned and skippered by Bob Jones. Bob has lived and worked Scottish waters for over 25 years and has been taking divers to Norway since 1999.

She sleeps up to 12 guests, comfortable for both dining and cruising with drying facilities and above deck lounge. Sleeping accommodation comprises of 3 twin rooms and a spacious open plan 6 bedded area. There are 2 toilets and 2 showers. The crew use separate quarters and facilities. Gaelic Rose complies with all MSA regulations and carry all necessary navigational and safety equipment, including oxygen for diving emergencies. Gaelic Rose isn’t the biggest or the most luxurious boat in the market. So don’t expect a hostess to make your bed and put a chocolate on your pillow, or a dive guide to assemble your gear for you. Instead expect.

• A boat that’s small enough to let you ashore at jetties other boats can’t get to, but big enough to ride the weather in comfort and safety. And our smaller size means our costs are lower, so we can afford to charge less, saving you money.

• A style of trip to suit you: hands-on or hands-off. You can take an active role in planning and running your holiday or simply relax and let us guide you. Everyone is welcome in the wheelhouse: you can take a turn at the wheel, or just enjoy the scenery and join in the banter: you’re guaranteed to hear at least one joke you haven’t heard before!

• An owner/skipper with decades of experience and outstanding local knowledge: in Norway it’s essential to have a skipper like Bob who has been before and knows exactly where the wrecks are; and Bob’s knowledge of scenic dives on the west coast of Scotland is unrivalled - he’s dived most of it himself in his days as a scallop diver. If you want to explore he can put you on excellent rarely dived sites, including little-known wrecks.

• Great food: wholesome, plentiful, tasty, and freshly prepared. We serve hot drinks and snacks after every dive; and you can help yourself to drinks from the galley at any time. Vegetarians and people with food allergies are welcome.

• A boat whose layout has evolved over many years to be optimum for its purpose: a dive deck where you can kit up without bending down whatever your height; a dining table where you can enjoy the companionship of eating with the whole group without being trapped in your seat; move around the ship in bad weather without having to go outside.

The weather in summer can be very good - blue skies and sunshine. However it does also rain, heavily. It is unlikely to be cold - certainly no worse than the west coast of Scotland, and warmer than Scapa Flow. Sea temperatures are around 15 deg C at the surface, reducing to as low as 6 or 7 at depth. The water in the fjords is often horizontally stratified - a layer of warm brackish water on top and cold salty water below. The layers are sometimes moving relative to one another. The temperature distribution at a particular site depends on how much mixing has taken place. Generally sites near the open sea are more uniform in temperature than those further up the fjords. Visibility in the lower layer is normally excellent with 10-20m on average.

There are some regulations relating to diving in Norway. These and other laws are enforced by various branches of the Norwegian authorities. It is common for dive boats to be boarded for inspection in harbour, or by patrol boats at sea. You will find that your skipper is justifiably nervous about having his boat arrested, or worse. "Look don't touch" is the rule for diving wrecks (though I have to say that all the choicest pieces had gone from the many Norwegian wrecks I've dived). So if you do bring up a trophy from a wreck, expect it to be thrown overboard immediately, and possibly you with it! This nervousness extends to divers getting DCI - skippers do not wish to antagonise the authorities by excessive use of recompression facilities. For this reason your skipper may seek to influence your diving plans if he feels they are provocative of DCI. This could lead to conflict if his concept of safe diving is different to yours.

The Second World War

 

Norway's declaration of neutrality was of little significance. On 9 April 1940 German forces attacked Norway, which after a two-month struggle was subdued, despite some military assistance from Great Britain and France. The royal family, the government and some of the heads of the Ministry of Defense and the civil administration left for Great Britain, along with the withdrawing allied troops. During the war the Norwegian government carried out its work in exile.

The Norwegian merchant fleet was the most important resource that the Norwegians put at the disposal of the allies. It consisted of more than 1,000 ships, aggregating over 4 million gross tons. In Great Britain military units were built up again within all the services. They took part in the naval campaigns in the Atlantic, in the combat following the invasion of continental Europe in 1944, and in the air combat over the UK and the Continent. Towards the end of the war, the Swedes permitted Norway to build up military units in Sweden. Some of these took part in the campaigns against the German enemies. This happened after a Soviet force had attacked and liberated a small area of Norway in north east Finnmark, in Norway's far north. In occupied Norway civilian resistance grew from year to year. Secret military forces were also assembled and constituted something of a threat to the Germans.

Norway was occupied right up to the German capitulation of 1945. At the time of the surrender there were no fewer than 400,000 German troops in Norway, which at that time had a population of barely 4 million.

All diving is subject to permission by the local port authorities and it is strictly prohibited to remove anything from the wrecks. This together with relatively sheltered waters have kept these war memorials in a very good condition making it possible for divers to go back in time and take a first hand look at what happened here more than 65 years ago

The Reefs of Norway

It’s colourful, surprisingly colourful down in the depths. Coloured sponges cover large and small boulders of granite. Seaweed of all shades of light and dark greens grow in between.

Similar to the considerably larger kelp forests off the Pacific coast of north America. There are constantly black and white speckles to be seen through the rich green of this underwater landscape: fields of mussels and shingle build colourful undertones. And then... I don’t believe it! A whole field of star fish. Arm in arm they lie next to each other, a shimmering green in the sunlight.

Three wrasses suddenly appear, and with their green aura and blue sidelines they appear to be migrants from a tropical ocean. The warm Gulf Stream, which runs along the coast, is responsible for this kind of phenomenon. The high oxygen and nutrient content presents ideal conditions for an unexpected richness of species. Tentacles feel their way forward from under a rock. Exhale, and sink until the mask is at the same level as the tentacles. A ghostly brown figure can be seen. Turn on your lamp and the beam finds a lobster in the niche under the rock. A place not reached by daylight. A huge crab is sitting under a similar rock just a few meters away. With a little luck you may even find a catfish, looking rather violent with it's crocodile like set of teeth. It is, infact, quite a peaceful fellow, as long as you leave him alone. Jelly fish are often seen meandering along with the current. In the shallower waters, the sunrays seem to light up their core, giving them an almost unearthly delicacy.

If you have dived the west coast of Scotland and are looking for something a bit more spectacular then Norway is well worth a visit. The scenery is outstanding with breathtaking cliffs and over hangs, lending it the title "the west coast of Scotland's big sister". Norway's enormous coastline and small population means that dive sites are never crowded. If you are a wreck diver you are in for a treat! World War II intact wrecks are plentiful and easily accessible. One of the best things about diving here is that tides are rarely a problem, making it safer and more enjoyable.

When in Norway the Gaelic Rose is normally based in Bergen with all trips starting and returning there. Bergen is a very lively city with great night life and varied shopping. Our trips are fully-catered, leaving you free to relax and dive, without paying high Norwegian prices.

Sogn og Fjordane - Sognefjord to Maløy

SS Frankenwald 20-40m

SS Frankenwald was a German cargo vessel which hit the rocks and then sank in January 1940. The 5000brt vessel was built in 1922 and measured 122x17x7 metres. The propeller was salvaged after the war.

The wreck sits upright with the bows to the S in 40m, and the stern in 35m. She is almost completely intact, possibly due to the manner of her sinking, and the very sheltered spot in which she lies. Both masts are still upright, extending to barely 5m below the surface, and are completely covered with plumose anemones and other species. The stern section is interesting, with an auxiliary steering wheel, a bank of air cylinders at the starboard side, and a block of three toilets at the port side. The captain's bath can be seen in the forward accommodation. The top of the wreck is at 24m - on the centre accommodation block above the engine room. The main deck is at about 30-32m. Visibility on the Frankenwald is normally good. There are a lot of fish on and around the wreck, notably large pollack. There is often a surface current, which can be as much a a knot, but it is normally slack below the halocline at 6m or so. The Frankenwald is an excellent wreck, though the dive is rather too much of a rectangular profile for my taste.

The Welheim 12-70m

The Welheim is one of the largest intact wrecks in the area. She was a 5455gt German cargo vessel built in Germany in 1939. She measured 126x18x7 metres and was oil powered. She sank on Askrova just south of Florø after being torpedoed by a Norwegian MTB in November 1944. At the time she was carrying a cargo of coal to Ålesund.

The wreck lies on her port side with the top of the bow facing SW at 12m and the stern in 70m. The remains of a gun platform lie in 30m on the seabed near the bow, and coal can be seen in the holds. Anti-aircraft guns are visible near the bridge, which is midships. The massive funnel is still attached, just behind the bridge and main accommodation, at about 45m. The wreck is free of silt and makes an excellent dive.

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M/S Ferndale and B/D Parrat

The Ferndale (18-45m) was a 4300gt motor vessel built in 1925. Her dimensions were 116x16x8 metres. She was Norwegian-owned, but was commandeered by the Germans during WW2. On 15th December 1944 she hit the Seglesteinen in Krakhellasund while sailing at night in a convoy. The following day the 135t tug Parat came to her assistance, but later the same day the two vessels were attacked by British Mosquitos and they sank alongside each other. Two Mosquitos and their crews were lost during the attack.

The wrecks lie with their bows to the N and with a rocky ridge running along their starboard sides. The seabed slopes downward at an angle of about 25 degrees. The bows of the Ferndale are collapsed and covered in kelp, but from a depth of 20m the wreck is upright and intact. There are many swimthroughs available for those so inclined, including one beneath the hull at about 18m. The auxiliary steering gear is at the stern at 38m. The seabed at the stern is about 45m.
The Parat (40-60m) lies upright with her bow almost touching the starboard side of the Ferndale's stern. The stern rail of the Parat is at 56m. Guns lie on the seabed either side of the Parat's bow (but I could only find one in August 2005). A good way to finish a dive on these wrecks is to contour round to the E side of the rocky ridge and follow it N and upwards to 10m, where it eventually leads to a beautiful vertical wall from 10m to the surface on the NE side of the Seglesteinen. The wall is covered in plumose anemones, and is an excellent place to complete decompression and/or safety stops. The water at this site is normally crystal clear. There is sometimes a current at this site, but it is generally confined to the upper few metres of water, and has never been unmanageable. This is a superb dive by any standards.

The Oldenburg (25-60m)

The Oldenburg (25-60m) was a 4595gt German steamship built in 1914. She measured 117x15x9 metres and had triple expansion engines. She was bombed and sunk by British aircraft in April 1945.

The wreck lies intact on her starboard side. The top of the bow is the shallowest part at 25m and the stern is said to lie in 60m (there was no sign of it at 51m when we dived her). It would be feasible to shore dive the Oldenburg - the E39 runs right next to the dive site at Vadheim. A very good wreck, though a bit off the beaten track.

By coincidence, there is another Oldenburg sunk in this area, a massive 8537brt vessel torpedoed off Stadt in 1943. The wreck has not yet been located, as far as I know.
Links

Diving on the D/S Oldenburg Vadheim, Norway, 2005

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The Havda (16-30m)

The Havda was a 677gt coastal passenger steamer built in Scotland in 1881. She had a steel hull measuring 55x8x4 metres. She was sunk by British aircraft in December 1944, while on passage towards Bergen. Six people were killed in the attack, including several Norwegian crew. Today the Havda rests on her port side, with the decks at an angle of about 60 degrees, and the bows facing E. She lies across a gently shelving sandy bottom with the keel shallowest and the top of the mast at about 30m. The shallowest part of the wreck is the midships starboard gunwhale at 16m. The hull is intact, but much of the wooden decking has rotted away revealing two levels below, which are easily entered. Much of the superstructure has collapsed to the seabed, and a mast lies out along the sand. The engine block and propeller shaft are clearly visible. There were human remains - a skull and long bones - in the central section of the Havda in 2003, but I believe they may now have been removed for burial.

Inger Tre (18-34m)

The Ingertre was a 3088gt Norwegian steamer built in 1920. She had triple expansion engines, and she measured 97x14x7 metres. She ran aground in January 1936 and later slid off and sank.

The wreck lies at the foot of a steep bank with the bow at 34m and the stern at 18m. The wreck is well broken, but large recognisable sections remain, particularly at the bow. The are plenty of swim throughs where plates have fallen away. The bow section retains its shape, and has a list to port. A mast lies across the deck and seabed. The rear half of the ship has collapsed, but large components such as the propeller shaft, four-bladed propeller, and parts of the engines can easily be seen. The visibility is good, and it is possible to swim round the whole wreck in a single dive.

Inger Seks (25-65+m)

The Inger Seks was a 4969gt steamship with triple expansion engines, built in 1913. She measured 115x16x8 metres. The Norwegian vessel was commandeered by the Germans early in WW2.

She went aground and was subsequently attacked by allied aircraft in April 1945. She burned for several days before she sank.

The wreck lies intact on her port side. The shallowest point is the starboard rail at the bow at 25m. The stem of the bow is at 30m, and the seabed is 35m. The foremast lies out across the bottom, and the bridge is an impressive sight as it looms up out of the depths. The seabed is at about 50m around the bridge area.

The wreck can be dived from the shore. Turn off the E39 at Instefjord, taking the road to Brekke. The site is about a mile up the road. The wreck lies on the north site of the alluvial fan of a stream which enters the fjord between two short road tunnels. It's about halfway on the 4 hour drive between Bergen and Florø.

The Bandak was a 40 metre 262grt steamer built in Norway in 1893 which ran ashore in fog in February 1949 with the loss of 7 men.

The stern section is relatively intact, and stands about 4m clear of the seabed. A boiler and the engine are visible, and the bronze propeller is still in place. A mast lies out along the seabed, but the wheelhouse has gone. The bow section is broken off and smashed to pieces. The wreck lies roughly north-south with the bows south and shallowest.

The Kilbulk (25-38) was a 177nt 57 metre long Norwegian coaster, built in Trondheim in 1968. She ran aground in bad weather in July 1987 and sank a few hours later, after the crew had been rescued.

The wreck lies in a narrow gully with a flat bottom at 38m. The stern was upright and intact in summer 2003, but the wheelhouse was moved through 90 degrees and damaged during a storm that winter. The bow is inverted and shows massive damage where the Kilbulk struck the rocks. This wreck is in an exposed position, and is close to the controlled fairway used by very large vessels.

The main options are the DFDS ferry from Newcastle to Bergen.

The low cost airline Norwegian flies directly to Bergen from Manchester and London Stansted